Vanguard Club 420 Rigging Manual

Club 420 Rigging Guide
Click on a topic, or simply scroll the page to read through the guide

Tools

Useful Knots

Start

Mast

Spreaders

Step The Mast

Boom

Mainsheet

Jib

Trapezes

Main

Vang

Outhaul

Spinnaker

Topping Lift

Pole

Sail

Sheets

Jib

Main

Before Launching

Cunningham

Unrigging

These instructions will help you properly prepare your new Club 420 for sailing. Special tips are marked with a

symbol.

All lines are as long as necessary for maximum purchase. Vanguard Sailboats encourages you to customize line lengths for your sailing pleasure, but be sure to cut and burn ends to prevent fraying.

(Back) TOOLS:

To rig your 420 the first time, you will need the following: Knife
2 adjustable wrenches and/or pliers
White electrical tape

(Back) USEFUL KNOTS TO HELP YOU RIG YOUR 420:

(Back) GETTING STARTED:

Unpack the major parts listed below and lay them out on a soft piece of ground free of sharp objects. To avoid damaging the contents, do not cut into packaging.

Hull
Spar kit which includes: Mast
Boom
Boat kit which includes: Mainsail
Mainsheet
Jib
Jib sheet
Spinnaker
Spinnaker sheets
Tiller/Hiking Stick
Bow line
Top Batten
Spinnaker pole
Rudder assembly
Sail numbers

(Back) ASSEMBLING THE MAST:

The mast comes already rigged except for the spreaders, which are taped to the mast. Remove all tape, and untie the halyards; attach halyard ends with shackles to the spinnaker pole ring, and tie off the free ends to the horn cleats so they won't be lost when stepping.

Before you install the spreaders, make sure the hoist end of the main halyard (which comes off the aft end of the masthead sheave) and the trapeze wires are AFT of the spreader brackets and all other rigging is FORWARD. This will save you a lot of aggravation later on. Locate the spreaders and pull the clevis pins out of the spreader brackets.

(Back) SPREADER INSTALLATION:

Slide the end of each spreader with two holes into the brackets on the mast, with the thin edge facing aft on the mast (toward the sail track). Line up the holes, reinstall the two clevis pins, and reattach the cotter rings.

Remove the clevis pins in the outboard end of each spreader and pull out the small clip. After locating the port upper shroud, slide the clip onto it and back into the port spreader; then reinsert the clevis pin. Repeat for the starboard upper/spreader. Double check there is no rigging running between the upper ends of the shrouds and the spreaders.

For extra security, tape around the spreaders to keep the cotter rings from working loose.

(Back) STEPPING THE MAST:

Make sure there are no overhead electrical wires in the area. Also check that the mast step hole and mast butt are clean.

Place the mast butt against a solid object, lift the top end, and walk toward the butt, raising it hand over hand until the mast stands vertical. Rotate the mast until the gooseneck points toward the stern. Keep your hands a good distance apart and angle the mast into the step from the side, then push the mast forward until it sits against the partners. If the butt is secure in the step, the mast will stay in place leaning forward unless the boat is rocked severely. Attach the headstay to the forward clevis pin on the bow; then push the mast aft until the headstay supports it and attach the shrouds. They will not be very tight; The jib halyard will tension them properly for sailing.

(Back) RIGGING THE BOOM:

Lie the boom on deck with the gooseneck fitting forward. Pull the clevis pin out from the mast fitting and line up the holes, then reinsert the pin. Place something under the aft end of the boom to keep it from scratching the gelcoat while you finish rigging.

(Back) MAINSHEET:

Thread the mainsheet through the ratchet block in the boat against the ratchet, from aft to forward through the aft block on the boom, down to the smaller block in the boat, and then up through the forward block on the boom from forward to aft. For 3:1 purchase, knot it there; for more control in heavy winds or for smaller skippers, create a 4:1 purchase by tying the end down to the becket on the smaller block in the goat.

(Back) JIB:

Remove the clevis pin just aft of the headstay, line up the jib tack between the holes, and reinsert the clevis pin. Shackle the halyard to the head of the sail.

To rig continuous sheets, tie a stopper knot through the clew of the sail, lead the line aft (forward of the foreguy as shown, and inside the shrouds) through one jib lead, across the boat to the other lead, forward to the sail, and tie another stopper through the clew.

To attach the ends of the sheets to the trapeze wires for easier access once on the wire, find the midpoint of the sheet and feed it as a loop through the clew of the sail. Pass both ends through that loop, keeping ther lengths fairly even. Bring each end back through a jub fairlead (forward of the foreguy as shown, and inside the shrouds) and across the boat to the opposite trapeze wire. Tie a stopper knot into the top of the trapeze handle.

Make sure the jib sheets are led inboard of the shrouds and outboard of the trapeze wires.

(Back) TRAPEZE WIRES:

Attach the shockcord already rigged on each side of the boat to the top of each trapeze handle. The shockcord should be tight enough that it pulls the trapeze wire straight down to the boat when not in use. Make sure your knot is very tight; shockcord easily unties itself.

(Back) MAIN:

After checking there are no sharp objects in the area, unroll the mainsail near the boat and install the top batten, thin end first. Secure the Velcro over the end. Locate the clew slug and slide it into the forward end of the boom track, leading with the aft edge (leech) of the sail. Ease the boltrope into the boom until the slug is close to the outboard end, then fasten the tack to the inboard end of the boom by removing the attached fast pin and reinstalling it through the grommet.

(Back) VANG:

The vang comes preassembled with the mast, but must be attached t the boat and the boom. Unwrap the tail from the port traveler bar and lead it forward through the block at the bottom of the vang cascade. Then lead it back to the aft cam cleat on the port side of the centerboard trunk. Attach the shackle on the top purchase to the boom bail.
Make sure all vang purchases allow for maximum throw; some of the lines may need to be adjusted.

(Back) OUTHAUL:

Tie a stopper knot in one end of the outhaul. Pass the other end through the eyestrap on the outboard end of the boom, through the clew of the sail from port to starboard, back through the block on the end of the boom, and forward to the cleat. Tie a stopper knot in the end to keep it from unrigging itself.

(Back) SPINNAKER GEAR - TOPPING LIFT:

The shockcord wrapped around the port traveler bar is the foreguy for the spinnaker pole (to keep it from skying). Unwrap it, lead it forward through the block in the bottom of the boat to port of the mast step, up through the fairlead just forward of the mast, and tie it into the topping lift eye. Make sure your knot is very tight; shockcord easily unties itself. The topping lift tail leads down through the top block on the starboard side of the mast butt and back to the forward cleat on the starboard side of the centerboard trunk.

(Back) SPINNAKER GEAR - POLE:

Preset the length of the topping lift by clipping the pole to the mast ring padeye at the midpoint of the pole. The pole should be horizontal and the shockcord should be snug enough to keep it from skying.

(Back) SAIL:

After checking there are no sharp objects in the area, unroll the spinnaker near the boat. Pack the sail into the turtle foot first and head last, leaving all three corners on top for easier rigging and setting.

(Back) SHEETS:

Attach one end of the spinnaker sheets to the aft clew of the sail. Lead the other end outside everything to the small blocks on the port side, across the boat forward of all mainsheet parts, through the opposite small block, and back forward again, outside everything (and forward of the headstay) to the forward clew of the sail. Make sure both ends of the sheets are on the same side of the jib. Hook each sheet into the reaching hook and cleat it in the clam cleat. Any additional slack can be taken up by temporarily cleating the sheets in the mainsheet clear, as shown.

(Back) SETTING THE JIB:

Locate the jib halyard and attach the shackle to the head of the jib. Make sure the jib sheets will run free and pull up the halyard. When the sail is most of the way up, you will discover the halyard is attached to the becket on a block; pass the tail of the halyard down through the cheek block near the heel of the mast, up through the block and down to the cleat. Tension the halyard and cleat the end of the purchase, then hang the halyard coil between the halyard and the mast, above the cleat.

(Back) SETTING THE MAIN:

Locate the aft end of the main halyard and attach it to the head of the mainsail. The smaller the knot, the closer to the top of the mast the sail will be. Make sure the mainsheet will run free and pull up the sail, feeding it into the sail track. Once the sail is near the masthead, you will find a stainless ring tied into the line. Pass a loop of halyard through the ring and down under the cleat, and use this additional purchase to pull the main up to full hoist. Cleat off the halyard, and hang the coil between halyard and mast.

(Back) BEFORE LAUNCHING:

Check that the transom drainplug is in place and tight. The automatic bailer should be closed.

Attach the rudder to the gudgeons as shown, kicking up the rudder if necessary. Make sure the rudder bolt is tight enough so the blade will remain kicked up. If the rudder stop does not prevent the rudder from lifting off the boat, bend the stop out so that it fits as shown. Pass the tiller between the mainsheet bridles and slide it into the rudder head. Wrap the rudder downhaul loosely around the cleat on the tiller; this line will get tightened once the rudder is all the way down.

(Back) CUNNINGHAM:

The cunningham is attached to the port side of the mast. Pass the end up through the grommet in the luff of the mainsail and back down to the clam cleat on the starboard side of the mast. Tie a stopper knot in the bitter end to prevent it unrigging itself.

NOW YOU ARE READY TO SAIL. FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY, MAKE SURE YOU ARE WEARING APPROPRIATE CLOTHING FOR THE CONDITIONS, AND PLEASE OBTAIN PROPER TRAINING BEFORE SAILING. HAVE FUN AND DON'T FORGET YOUR LIFEJACKET!

(Back) UNRIGGING:

All gear should be rinsed, if sailing in salt water, and the sail should be allowed to dry before it is rolled up. Removing the battens from the pockets between uses will increase the life of the elastic that holds them in. Make sure the window is not creased when you fold the sail.

As you approach shallow water when you come in from sailing, pull up the centerboard halfway. Untie the rudder downhaul and pop up the rudder. Make sure your mainsheet will run free, and release the vang. After you are secured to the dock or standing in shallow water, remove the rudder by depressing the stop. Once the boat is on land, make sure the headstay is still tied off to the bow shackle before dropping jib. You can leave the boat rigged unless it is traveling; just make sure all halyards are secured and the mainsheet is snugged to keep the boom on the boat.