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What should I be looking for when I buy blades?

There are basically four properties which define a good set of blades, straightness, fairness, stiffness and shape. Here's a brief description of each, and what you should expect to see in different price brackets.

Straightness is most important in the daggerboard and can be tested by sighting down each of the long edges. Because it is so technically difficult and labor intensive, only the most expensive daggerboards will be perfectly straight, most will have minor waves or a slight hook to one side, on the order of 2-5mm.

Fairness refers to how smooth the surface of the foil is. The more expensive the blade, the more perfect you may expect the surface to be.

Stiffness is most important in the daggerboard. Generally, stiffer is better, and stiffer is more expensive. But beware the lightweight sailor, sailors under 65 or 75 lbs. often have have trouble depowering the boat in heavy winds, an ultra stiff daggerboard will exaggerate this problem. In such cases, you may be better off with a less expensive blade as long as you pick a fair and straight daggerboard.

Shape is really only an option in the rudder and it has a great deal to do with personal preference and sailing style. If you're not sure, it's a good idea to give us a call and talk to us about it, or have a little chat with your coach. And don't be afraid to mix and match rudders and daggerboards, it's all about finding the right combination for you.

Why do some blades cost so much more than others, and what do I need?

All of the properties of a good blade that were discussed above require a very high degree of technical skill and labor to achieve. Also, materials that are light, strong and resilient to warping are very expensive. What you are paying for is perfection in each of those areas. Generally, the more you are willing to spend, the closer you will come to the perfect blade. But here's some advice from those who know:

First, I've said it once and I'll say it again, you're better off with bad blades in great condition than great blades in bad condition. The moral of the story, if you don't buy a blade bag to carry and protect those expensive racing blades, then don't bother buying the blades. Taking care of your equipment makes you tons faster on the water and it will save you lots and lots of money. Mom and Dad might actually buy you that spiffy new boat if you take care of the hunk o' junk you're in now. Blade bags, bottom covers and dollies all pay for themselves in one or two seasons. So don't be cheap, you'll regret it later.

Second, sometimes the qualities of the blades which we pay for, are not what we want. As with spars, generally, stiffer blades are better. But this is not always the case. As a coach, I often had very light sailors raise their daggerboard about a hand's width upwind in heavy air. Doing so helped to depower the boat, keeping it sailing flat and efficiently. If you're a light sailor, you may be better off with a slightly bendier daggerboard for that very reason. The bonus is that in light and medium winds, the stiffness isn't a factor, then, in heavy winds, you get the benefits of having the entire foil in the water in the lulls. In the puffs, the board will bend slightly, depowering your boat and making you more efficient. It's a win/win situation, and it costs less. Plus, when you're a hulking Red fleeter and you have to buy stiffer blades, they will be brand new when you've got your best chance at doing some serious trophy damage.

 

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