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What should I be looking for
when I buy blades?
There are basically four
properties which define a good set of blades, straightness,
fairness, stiffness
and shape. Here's a brief description
of each, and what you should expect to see in different
price brackets.
Straightness is
most important in the daggerboard and can be tested by
sighting down each of the long edges. Because it is so
technically difficult and labor intensive, only the most
expensive daggerboards will be perfectly straight, most
will have minor waves or a slight hook to one side, on
the order of 2-5mm.
Fairness refers
to how smooth the surface of the foil is. The more
expensive the blade, the more perfect you may expect the
surface to be.
Stiffness is most
important in the daggerboard. Generally, stiffer is
better, and stiffer is more expensive. But beware the
lightweight sailor, sailors under 65 or 75 lbs. often
have have trouble depowering the boat in heavy winds, an
ultra stiff daggerboard will exaggerate this problem. In
such cases, you may be better off with a less expensive
blade as long as you pick a fair and straight
daggerboard.
Shape is really
only an option in the rudder and it has a great deal to
do with personal preference and sailing style. If you're
not sure, it's a good idea to give us a call and talk to
us about it, or have a little chat with your coach. And
don't be afraid to mix and match rudders and
daggerboards, it's all about finding the right
combination for you.
Why do some blades cost
so much more than others, and what do I need?
All of the properties of a good
blade that were discussed above require a very high
degree of technical skill and labor to achieve. Also,
materials that are light, strong and resilient to
warping are very expensive. What you are paying for is
perfection in each of those areas. Generally, the more
you are willing to spend, the closer you will come to
the perfect blade. But here's some advice from those who
know:
First, I've said it once and I'll
say it again, you're better off with bad blades in great
condition than great blades in bad condition. The moral
of the story, if you don't buy a blade bag to carry and
protect those expensive racing blades, then don't bother
buying the blades. Taking care of your equipment makes
you tons faster on the water and it
will save you lots and lots of money. Mom and Dad might
actually buy you that spiffy new boat if
you take care of the hunk o' junk you're in now. Blade
bags, bottom covers and dollies all pay for themselves
in one or two seasons. So don't be cheap, you'll regret
it later.
Second, sometimes the qualities of
the blades which we pay for, are not what we want. As
with spars, generally, stiffer blades are better. But
this is not always the case. As a coach, I often had
very light sailors raise their daggerboard about a
hand's width upwind in heavy air. Doing so helped to
depower the boat, keeping it sailing flat and
efficiently. If you're a light sailor, you may be better
off with a slightly bendier daggerboard for that very
reason. The bonus is that in light and medium winds, the
stiffness isn't a factor, then, in heavy winds, you get
the benefits of having the entire foil in the water in
the lulls. In the puffs, the board will bend slightly,
depowering your boat and making you more efficient. It's
a win/win situation, and it costs less. Plus, when
you're a hulking Red fleeter and you have to buy stiffer
blades, they will be brand new when you've got your best
chance at doing some serious trophy damage.
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